Cosworth Electronics / Pectel Dealer, Syvecs Dealer. (4x4 Engine Loom With connector cut off) Depending on which loom you have there may not have the ECU diagnostic wire. nb.NEVER let any live wire or 12 volt feed touch NEG or CB(contact breaker) side of COIL.ever. Ignition Feed Solid Black or Solid Red (Thick Wire) Perminant Live Red Blue Striped (Thick Wire) or 2 black wires on a 3 Door loom. If it's now running and want to stop it, remove NEW little wire "No 1" from POS of Battery. This will stop the starter whether engine starts or not (as normal). If no joy, use a second new wire with clips to bridge small terminal(small wire can stay if it's there) at Starter Solenoid to large heavy cable at S/solenoid, quickly removing this wire from LARGE Solenoid terminal, or both. If wiring is good to starter, turn key to start. In the meantime, to prove Ignition system works, "hotwire" the car by ignoring the whole system as she stands, and run a new wire with 2 aligator clips from POS of Battery to POS or IGN post of COIL. If none of the wires do the above, you need to search for one in engine bay that does. If it does, put test lite/volt meter somewhere you can see it while you go to key and turn to "start".lite /12v must remain strong and constant, even after you let go and key wants to come back to "IGN on" resting position. See if one of those wires is 12v alive or lites up the test lamp. Now turn on ignition to first click and look for red IG lite on dash. There should be no lite or voltage there at either of "your" 2 wires. get a test lite or volt meter on to one of those 2 wires you mentioned while key is off, with NEG/EARTH cable/wire of testlite/voltmeter on NEG Battery Terminal, and a known good battery is fully connected and terminals clean & tight. ![]() Once fitted the modification is not noticeable. ![]() This is to assist sliding the grommet over the wide flat electrical connectors and the wider sections of the wiring loom. The only modification made from the original is an increase in the diameter of the central hole from 14.0mm to 17.0mm. We'll assume it's a Bosch type starter with attached Solenoid and your car is still NEG earth. Fits where the main wiring loom runs through the bulkhead. ![]() This is usually on Fords in the form of a "special" wire to the POS terminal of COIL, unless someone has installed a Ceramic Type in the Loom. If you mean it "fires up" and roars into life as you start it but dies THE SECOND you let go of the key, your Ballast resistor is "fried" and it needs replacing.
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